Sigelei 100w Box Mod DIY Halloween Costume Part 2
How we made the Sigelei 100w Box Mod DIY Halloween Costume…
The box mod costume is unique! Surprise all of your friends with the Sigelei 100W DIY costume this Halloween. Pair with an RDA headpiece for a complete look!
What you’ll need:
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- 5 or 6 (depending on your size) black foam core boards – No more than a few dollars each at a craft/office supply store
- Heavy Duty Aluminum Foil – free – if you have some lying around the kitchen, you won’t need much
- Original Gorilla Glue – Around $7.00, or just use any strong adhesive glue
- One medium/small sized paper bowl or plate – $5.00 for a pack, or you just might have one in the kitchen somewhere…
- Ruler – Free or $3-4
- A few sheets of printer paper or a grey colored foam core board / poster board – Free or a few dollars for the foam core at a craft/office supply store
- A large, round bowl or plate from your kitchen (for tracing circumference)
- A cup, bottle, or anything similar to trace
- A black Sharpie
- A piece of white chalk to trace on black foam boards (or just use a bar of hand soap – really!)
- Roll of black Gorilla tape / or electrical tape / any black colored tape will do – $5.00 max.
- Some clear/transparent tape – a couple of dollars at the discount store
- A box cutter or utility knife
- Some binder clips to use as “clamps” – $4.00 for a bunch or use anything that can quickly clamp the foam boards together.
Total cost = around $30 – $40 if you purchase all of the materials at full retail price and don’t have anything around the house that you can use to make this.
Our biggest expense were the foam core boards, which ran about $4.00 each at our local Staples. With better planning, you might be able to find them elsewhere for less. We had everything else used in this project lying around the house, so the entire box costume cost us around $20.00 total.
1. Measure out the width around your shoulders (from shoulder to shoulder)
Make sure you add a comfortable amount of space next to each shoulder.
Write down the width plus extra space needed in inches. This will be the top base of your Sigelei Mod, the part which your head will poke through.
2. Grab a black foam core board and mark the horizontal shoulder width.
This will serve as a guide to how wide your box will be from the front of the costume.
3. Lightly score the foam board along the vertical width mark.
Be careful not to cut through to the opposite side of the board. Scoring the board creates a bendable edge along the foam core, making it easier to secure to the other sides of the box a little later in the tutorial.
4. Now that you have your width, you need to find a comfortable depth for the box mod.
Eric held up the scored top part of the board so we can determine if we needed to chop off a few inches from the front and back of his box. The original depth of the foam board looked good… so we decided to leave it alone and not reduce the size.
During this step, if you feel like you might have a bit too much room in the box, go ahead and make the depth a little smaller.
5. Now that you’ve adjusted the width and depth of your box, find the center of the top piece you are working with.
Mark the center…
6. Grab your completed Mutation-X RDA headpiece & crudely trace it in the center of the Sigelei box top
We’ll need to find an object of similar circumference to trace on top of this messy circle…
7. Trace a neat circle on top of the crudely traced top cap circumference…
We found our vacuum cleaner was a perfect match with the top cap. We also could have used a slightly smaller bowl, or the bottom of a bucket, garbage can, etc. The possibilities are endless, look around the house and you’ll definitely find something similar in size.
If you can’t match it perfectly, don’t worry… the most important part is that the size is large enough to fit your head through.
8. Grab some aluminum foil (you probably have some left over from the RDA part).
9. Take whatever object you used to trace a neat circle around your opening in step 7.
Use it to trace a similar shape in the aluminum foil…
10. Find a large plate or bowl that’s slightly larger than the circumference of your opening.
Fold your traced foil in half, creating a straight line along the diameter of the circle. This makes things much easier to trace and cut neatly. Trace another half-circle right above the original (Check out the third photo)…
11. While the foil is still folded, cut the foil along both lines you’ve just traced.
You’re cutting out an aluminum foil ring.
Don’t discard the round piece of foil from the center, we’ll use it later to create a ring around the arm opening.
12. Unfold your foil ring and you should see something like this…
Place it around your marked opening. Make sure the edges are straight and aligned. We’re recreating the 510 connection area of the mod …alright, maybe the 510 on the Sigelei 100w mod isn’t in the center, but we figured it wouldn’t matter too much and this would be more comfortable to wear than if we were to place it closer to the edge.
13. Grab a utility knife and carefully cut out the traced opening in the foam board.
Take your time and don’t make a mess…
You should have a perfect circle cutout when you’re finished.
14. Go back to your foil ring and place it around your opening…
Use a glue stick and spread it around the underside of your foil ring. Don’t over-do it with the glue. Quickly flip the ring over and paste it around the opening. Let it dry (glue sticks dry pretty quick).
It’s time to prepare the two sides of the box mod…
15. Grab two more foam core boards.
You’ll need to score them to match the depth of your top piece.
Mark a straight line along the edge. Do this on both foam board “sides” of your box mod.
Grab a utility knife and very lightly score the along the straight lines. Be careful not to cut through the boards… the idea is to have the excess pieces fold inward.
We’ll fold them inward and use them later to secure the edges of the box from the inside.
Making the button / arm hole…
16. Use a paper plate or bowl & cut out the center of it.
Don’t cut a very large hole at first, you’ll want to pull it up your arm like a sleeve and find a comfortable resting area for it on your upper arm. If it’s too tight, just make a larger opening… Don’t bother making the center too neat, you’re covering it with some aluminum foil anyway.
17. Grab some foil and wrap it around your paper bowl / plate.
Fold the edges inward and use some clear masking tape to secure them to the inside walls so they don’t unravel when putting on and taking off the box.
Flipped over, you now have something that sort of resembles the shiny, beveled button you find on the Sigelei 100w mod.
Grab one of your side panels!
18. Find a plate or circular object a tad smaller (about an inch) than the circumference of your button…
Trace it towards the top area of your side panel. Make sure it’s aligned well.
19. If all looks good, cut out the center using a box cutter or utility knife.
You’re going to stick your foiled button through this arm hole from the inside and tape it down along the inward edges.
Now we need to make a firing button ring…
20. Use the foam board circle you’ve just cut away for your button arm hole.
Trace it on some aluminum foil. Cut it out neatly.
21. You still need to cut out its center (just like we did when we made the 510 ring).
Fold the circle in half along its circumference. Grab a small plate or anything round and trace a half moon shape, leaving about 2 inches around the edge. While folded in half, cut out the ring and discard the center foil.
23. Carefully place the ring around the armhole opening…
Using a gluestick, spread some glue on the underside of your foil ring. Flip it over and wait a little for the glue to dry.
Making the + and – wattage buttons:
24. Trace a small circular object on some extra foam board and cut two identical circles out…
We winged this whole part, so there really isn’t an exact method here.
25. Lay down your side panel, place your + and – buttons down, use an extra piece of foam board to approximate the location of the mod’s screen.
The idea is to figure out a proportion of some sort. This won’t be perfect since the amount of space available for the screen and wattage buttons will vary greatly depending on the size of your armhole. If your wattage buttons look too big, make them smaller. If you see that there’s some extra room along the side panel, feel free to make them larger.
26. Draw one “+” and “-” sign on each button and scoop out the center.
The idea is to make a slight indentation in the foil that will cover the buttons. Our’s isn’t perfect, but it didn’t bother us too much. Feel free to improvise if you’d like this to be neater.
27. Grab some aluminum foil and wrap the little wattage buttons.
You’ll be gluing the underside to the side panel, so don’t worry about making the back of the button neat. The most important part is making sure the foil lays flat on the back of the button so it easily adheres to the glue.
Making the screen…
We’re using a light grey foam core board to cut out the screen. We found it while buying the black foam boards and figured it will work well for making a screen. Feel free to substitute it with something else if you have trouble finding it. Even some white printer paper can work just as well…
30. Use an extra piece of black foam board to make a screen template.
You’ll want equal distances between the bottom of the side panel and the bottom of your “-” wattage button. This will determine how long your screen will be.
Keep the width in mind too… You want to make sure the shape is rectangular and proportionate to your firing button.
31. If your screen template looks good, trace it on your grey foam board (or whatever medium you’re using as a screen).
Cut it out neatly. Place it down on your side panel with the wattage buttons to make sure all looks good…
(Skip this step if you’ve opted to use some paper as the screen. You’ll just paste it onto the panel without cutting anything out)
32. Screens are nested in the casing of the mod, right?
Lay down your screen on your side panel, double check that everything looks proportional. Trace the screen with a marker or pencil then use a box cutter to cut the screen’s shape from the black side panel.
Let’s draw the screen…
33. Grab a ruler. Find the center and divide the screen into 4 equal rectangles.
Use a marker to make the division lines.
34. Fill in the rest of the screen output info from the Sigelei 100w mod.
This one’s completely up to the imagination. Fill in whatever wattage, battery life indicator, voltage, and ohms you desire!
Use a marker for the outlines to make sure it’s seen from afar.
35. To make the appearance of the screen’s housing, secure it in place using black tape.
(This can be electrical tape or any black-colored tape really… we used some black Gorilla tape since we had it on hand).
Carefully lay down the tape along all 4 sides of the rectangle.
Note: If you want your screen to look a bit shiny, use some clear packing tape to cover the screen’s rectangle. This step is not necessary.
36. While you’re here… flip over your side panel and use some tape to secure the firing button armhole plate from inside the box.
If you’ve cut the foam board to insert the screen, reinforce it by taping down the edges from the inside too.
37. Mark where your wattage buttons should be and glue them to the panel.
We used Gorilla glue for this part. Just dab a bit of glue to the back of the buttons and set them in place by putting something heavy on top while the glue dries.
Making the opposite side panel…
38. Grab the second side’s foam board and trace out another arm hole.
Make sure it aligns with the opposite side. You don’t want your armholes lopsided…
39. Cut the armhole out using a box cutter or knife..
Don’t be messy… this side isn’t going to be covered by anything.
40. Print out a Sigelei logo (or draw one yourself).
Since the 100w mod had an oval black and white logo on the side of the device, we figured it would be easy to just print it out and glue it onto the side of the panel right above the second armhole.
If you’re graphically inclined:
Step A: Use Google images to find “Sigelei Logo”
Step B: All you need to do is black and white the photo, then invert the image.
Step C: Print the inverted logo and cut out the oval shape.
Grab another blank foam core board. This will be the back of your box.
The back door screws:
41. Find a cup or something circular to trace. Trace two circles on your grey foam board.
If you don’t have one, just use a blank piece of paper – although the 100w screws are dark in color you can probably get away with using whatever is at hand.
42. Cut out the screw circles.
Spread some glue on the underside, then paste them both into place on the top and bottom of the back panel in the center.
43. Once the screw glue is dry, grab a black marker and color in the exposed edges.
If you used paper for the screws, skip this step.
44. Color in the screws with a Sharpie!
Putting it all together…
45. Stand up the 4 completed box panels.
Fold the scored edges inward and pin in place to check the final measurements…
46. After verifying that everything fits comfortably, grab your black tape.
You’re going to tape all four panels along each seam that runs down the box. Make sure the edges are aligned neatly. Run the tape carefully downward until each of the four seams are secured in place.
47. You’re almost finished… one last step is to tape the top piece to the 4 sides.
Place the top panel on top of the box. It should be a great fit if everything was done correctly. Our top panel was a little bit wider than the box, so we needed to score a couple of inches on each side and fold the edges in for a perfect fit.
48. Tape the top panel to the rest of the box.
Do this the same way you taped all four panels together in step 46.
…and you’re all done!!
Congratulations, you’re going to be a Sigelei mod and Mutation-X RDA for Halloween!
In case you’ve missed part 1: Making the Mutation-X RDA headpiece for the costume, check it out here.